ABSTRACT
The high aesthetic value of the pattern dyed fabrics of Nigeria's small scale dyeing industries is a fact with which the world at large is well acquainted. However, the level of their performance in relation to predetermined end uses is not certain. The problem of this study therefore, is an investigation into the extent to which some parameters of quality namely; aesthetics, comfort and durability are either present or absent in this type of home - made textiles. The purpose of this study is to: (a) identify and examine the raw materials, equipment and techniques employed in pattern dyeing in Nigeria; (b) find out both the producers and consumers' appraisal of the fabrics, performance level and to use standard laboratory facilities and methods to verify the information obtained; (c) determine the effect of quality and/or manipulation of raw materials on the fabrics performance and; (d) make recommendations based on the findings for future research. This research is evaluative in nature, hence two research strategies were employed in the gathering of data. These are; the field survey and the experimental method. During the field survey samples were obtained from the dyers, sellers and users of the fabric. Alongside the collection of samples, information about adequate or deficient quality parameters was obtained through interviews and participant observation. The samples were then subjected to testing using the facilities and methods stipulated by the International Standard Organisation (ISO). The assessment of results was also done in accordance with the ISO specifications. The information gathered from the field was to a large extent, confirmed by the laboratory tests. 'Colour fastness' an aspect of fabric aesthetic performance was found to be of major concern to the consumers. The test confirmed the fact that the fabrics have Colour fastness problems and that only a little effort Is required on the part of the craftsmen to remedy the situation. Other prominent deficiencies observed were poor crease recovery, abrasion resistance and dimensional stability. On the other hand, both the water and air permeability values of the fabrics were generally high. The tensile strength was also generally high. The result of this study shows that the fabrics possess characteristics which qualified their quality to be ranked as good. Furthermore, the fabrics have the potential to rank higher than most contemporary fabrics with identical construction patterns and decoration procedures if the recommendations at the end of the study are considered and acted upon. Finally, the study reveals the fact that all the performance parameters considered either adequate or deficient in the fabric as an apparel wear can actually be manipulated to adapt the pattern dyed fabrics to many more varied end uses than are presently known.